Washing Machine Won't Drain? Here's How to Fix It
Washing machine won't drain? Learn how to fix a washer that won't empty water. Step-by-step guide for Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, GE, Maytag & all brands.
Updated April 6, 2026 · 8 min read
Why Your Washer Won't Drain
A washing machine that won't drain leaves you with a tub full of dirty water and soaking wet clothes. It's frustrating, but the fix is usually straightforward. In most cases, the culprit is a clogged drain pump filter, a blocked drain hose, or a small object (coin, hair clip, sock) jammed in the pump.
Before you do anything else, cancel the cycle and try running a Drain & Spin cycle. On most washers, you can select just the spin/drain portion. If water still doesn't drain, work through the steps below.
Step 1: Clean the Drain Pump Filter
This is the single most common fix for a washer that won't drain, and it takes about 5 minutes.
Front-load washers: Look for a small access door or panel at the bottom-front of the machine. Open it to reveal the drain pump filter (also called a coin trap). Place towels and a shallow pan below it — water WILL pour out when you open it. Slowly twist the filter counterclockwise and pull it out. You'll likely find lint, coins, hair ties, small socks, and other debris. Clean it thoroughly and reinstall.
Top-load washers: Most top-loaders don't have an accessible filter like front-loaders. The pump is usually accessed from the back or bottom of the machine. Check your owner's manual for the location.
Step 2: Check the Drain Hose
The drain hose runs from the back of the washer to either a standpipe, laundry sink, or drain pipe in the wall.
Pull the washer away from the wall and inspect the hose. Look for kinks, sharp bends, or pinch points. If the hose goes into a standpipe, make sure it's not pushed in too far — the hose should only go 6–8 inches into the pipe. If it's pushed in too far, it can create an airtight seal that prevents drainage.
Disconnect the hose and check for clogs. Run water through it with a garden hose. If it's blocked, try clearing it with a drain snake or simply replace the hose — they're about $10–$20.
Step 3: Check for a Jammed Drain Pump
If the filter is clean and the hose is clear, something may be stuck in the drain pump impeller itself. Small objects like coins, buttons, bra underwires, and bobby pins are the usual suspects.
How to check: With the filter removed, look inside the pump housing with a flashlight. You may be able to see or feel the impeller — a small plastic fan-like component. Try turning it with your finger. It should spin freely. If it's stuck or you can feel something jamming it, carefully extract the object with needle-nose pliers.
Listen to the pump: If you hear a loud humming or buzzing noise when the washer tries to drain, the pump motor is running but the impeller is likely jammed. If you hear absolutely nothing, the pump motor itself may have failed.
Step 4: Check the Lid Switch or Door Lock
Your washer has a safety switch that prevents operation when the lid (top-loader) or door (front-loader) is open. If this switch fails, the washer may stop mid-cycle and not drain.
Top-loaders: The lid switch is a small mechanism under the lid that clicks when you close it. If the switch is broken, the washer thinks the lid is open and won't drain or spin. You can test it by pressing the switch manually with a pen — you should hear it click. No click = replace the switch ($10–$30).
Front-loaders: The door lock assembly can fail electrically even if the door is physically closed. If the door lock indicator on the control panel isn't illuminated during the cycle, the lock may need replacement. If your washer also isn't spinning, a bad door lock or lid switch is the likely common cause.
Step 5: Test the Drain Pump Motor
If the pump isn't making any noise at all during the drain cycle, the motor may have burned out. This is less common but does happen, especially in older machines.
You can test the pump motor with a multimeter — disconnect power, access the pump (usually from the back or bottom of the machine), and test the motor terminals for continuity. No continuity = dead motor.
Replacement drain pumps cost $25–$75 depending on brand. On most machines, it's a 30–45 minute DIY replacement if you're comfortable with basic repairs.
Emergency: How to Drain a Full Washer Manually
If your washer is full of water and you need to get it out now:
Method 1 — Gravity drain: Pull the drain hose out of the standpipe and lower it into a bucket on the floor. Gravity will start draining the water. Empty the bucket and repeat until the tub is empty.
Method 2 — Drain filter: On front-loaders, use the drain pump filter at the bottom. Place towels and a large pan underneath, then slowly open the filter. Water will flow out steadily. Be prepared — a full front-loader can hold 10+ gallons.
Method 3 — Bail it out: For top-loaders, you can scoop water out with a container. It's tedious but effective.
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